Those of us that have ventured to the Finger Lakes are likely familiar with New York-style Rieslings, which are known for their consistent quality, earthiness, and pungent fruit characters.
I wanted to travel a bit farther to explore the grape’s most famous region’s: France and Germany. In light of the pandemic, actual travel was impossible, so my pal William Oben from WineBox stepped in once again to cultivate an authentic tasting experience at home.
William selected wines that aren’t hard to find – many of them will be available at your local wine shops. If you do decide to vicariously travel with us to Europe, don’t neglect your pairing. As William says, “Riesling is a food wine.”
Germany
“One of the tell-tale characteristics [of German Riesling] is the petrol smell,” explains William. Other characteristics of note include sharp acidity and honeysuckle flavors. We tried Rieslings from three well-known German producers.
Von Winning – Winnings Riesling
“One of the things I love about Riesling is the difference on the nose and on the palate,” explains William. This Von Winning Riesling is a great example. On the nose, one instantly picks up on the characteristic petrol and stone fruit. The palate is fruit-forward, beginning with apricot and zesty citrus, and giving way to spice and a faint residual sugar that draws out the fruit to the finish.
On the tongue, the wine feels a bit waxy, thanks to the resin in the grape which can give Rieslings an oily texture. This medium-dry wine can be paired with a light and salty snack. You can find it for about $18.
Weingut Robert Weil – Tradition
True to the region, this wine also presents with petrol on the nose. The semi-dry wine is marked by a sweeter smell, echoed on the palate with a candied apple flavor. Bright acidity and distinct minerality give structure to the wine and lengthen the finish.
Try it with a spicy dish like Kung Pao chicken, which will balance the food’s spice with the wine’s natural sweetness. This everyday wine from the renowned producer Robert Weil can be found for about $30.
Donnhoff – Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese
The first thing one notices about this Riesling from Donnhoff is the residual sugar apparent in the glass that almost gives it an effervescent look. The sugar foreshadows a dessert-wine-esque quality on the palate. Ripe fruit coalesces with crisp acidity for a balanced tension. There’s a good deal of complexity and nuance to this wine, which changes over the course of the sip.
While not overly sweet, the nectarous quality would pair well with cheese. You can find this one for about $100.
France
“In Alsace, the wine’s profile is all about the vineyard.” William notes that French Riesling wines are a little weightier because of the differences in the soil. We tasted two Rieslings from Alsace.
Domaine Ostertag Les Jardins Riesling
With honeysuckle and white peach on the nose, this aromatic wine smells sweeter than it is. Citrus flavors and spice interplay on the palate. It doesn’t surprise me to learn that the winemaker, André Ostertag, trained in Burgundy – the terroir’s influence is distinct and expressive.
In comparison to its German Riesling counterparts, this wine is on the dry side but with a distinct nectar characteristic. Pair it with a salmon or a creamy sauce. You can find it for around $35.
Domaine Weinbach Riesling
The bouquet of this wine is floral, further emphasizing the distinction between French and German-style Rieslings. On the palate, this wine is acid-driven with complexity, marked by flavors of citrus and green apple and showcasing delicate but well-integrated minerality. Similar to the Domaine Ostertag, the minerality showcases the importance of the soil to Alsatian Rieslings. The exceptionally long finish showcases lingering notes of honey and tangerine.
In defiance of William’s clear food-pairing directions, I would drink this wine all by itself. You can find it for about $55.
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